Malaysia Watch Forum
Main Forums => General Discussion - Modern Watches => Topic started by: hanz079 on September 12, 2011, 08:55:26 AM
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As you guys already noticed, I did a 2nd purge of my watches and now they are all gone and bullets are firmly in hand.
Aiming to get a 2nd Rolex (My first being an ExpII) and believe it of not, I can't make up my mind yet on which model.
I have been texting a fellow mmmber here bombarding him with questions until I oso paiseh liao...
So I will bring my questions here.
I preferably want my Rolex to come with rehaut inner bezel. So it's "M" Serial or newer.
I like the coke GMT master II but as far as I know, the model have been discontinued in 2008?
Is there a Coke Bezel model with an "M" Serial with rehaut inner bezel?
But if I were to get a GMTII, I guess the ExpII will have to go... as it is too similar. Same dial, hands and GMT hand.
The thing I love about the GMTII and ExpII is the Movement that lets me adjust the hour hand independently without messing with the minutes and seconds stopping.
Any other watch with a movement capable of this?
Would not mind jumping on the new GMTIIc as well (Green GMT hand)
Does all DSSD comes without the rehaut inner bezel? Even "M" Serial? I know the new model has "Original Helium Valve" engraved inside, I am talking about the model before that.
I know the Submariner is the definitive model and I am interested in the Sub No date.
Then I was thinking that all the above models come with mercedes hands and almost the same dial sans some wordings on the dial.
So, If I were to get a Rolex that is abit different... looks like the Milgauss and Daytona is the only 2 models left.
My heart is 40-50% on a Milgauss but with a Daytona within touching distance at a couple of thousand bucks more... it is quite tempting...
So, the main concern is dunno which one to buy.
Ain't it good if I have unlimited funding? Then I won't have this "problem" ;D
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Hanz...these are positive problems...i like...
I think get the one you like the most :) I know i know, to simple of an advise but the best things are usually simple :)
My sub ND is like ever green on my wrist so I am guessing a sub will do no wrong :)
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i would suggest trying all on the wrist...that was what i did when deciding between the milgauss and hulk :thumbsup:
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Bro, just buy the one you love and smile to you, if not happy after a while, just put in Sale section...waula....problem solved ;D
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chapter ring is a plus point but when comes to DSSD it doesnt matter anymore to me.
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Got DSSD without chapter ring? As far as i know, it has one. Mine has one and it is the V series. If i can afford i'd go in this order: SS Daytona, Sub LV Hulk then New ExpII/GMTIIC. If cannot afford then whichever one is nearer to your budget, just go for it. They are Rolex-es after all.
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forget the other Rolex models, get the Daytona. after that, you can see which ones catch your eye again, if any.
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Thanks for all the replies so far.
As for the DSSD that G.Mac mentioned, the newer DSSD is engraved with "Original Helium Valve"
I am not too interested in that model.
I am more into the older discontinued ones but I have seen "M" Serial ones without the chapter ring.
So, is it safe to assume that the DSSD is discontinued before Rolex start engraving the inner bezel?
Daytona... yes... which is also a choice... black or white dial? ;D
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Thanks for all the replies so far.
As for the DSSD that G.Mac mentioned, the newer DSSD is engraved with "Original Helium Valve"
I am not too interested in that model.
I am more into the older discontinued ones but I have seen "M" Serial ones without the chapter ring.
So, is it safe to assume that the DSSD is discontinued before Rolex start engraving the inner bezel?
Daytona... yes... which is also a choice... black or white dial? ;D
i assume ur exp2 is black dial...so y not white dial!
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Thanks for all the replies so far.
As for the DSSD that G.Mac mentioned, the newer DSSD is engraved with "Original Helium Valve"
I am not too interested in that model.
I am more into the older discontinued ones but I have seen "M" Serial ones without the chapter ring.
So, is it safe to assume that the DSSD is discontinued before Rolex start engraving the inner bezel?
Daytona... yes... which is also a choice... black or white dial? ;D
That's called SD and not DSSD :laugh:
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SS Daytona Black dial :thumbsup:. And yea it is the SD and not the DSSD.
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I see... so the older one is Seadweller and the newer ones are called Deepsea Seadweller...
Got it bro... :thumbsup:
So, the Seadweller does not come with rehaut inner bezel? Discontinued before Rolex apply the rehaut? Correct?
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Hanz,
If you want to keep your Phantom ExpII, go for preowned 16610LV(Kermit).
If you want to let go your Phantom, get a preowned
SS Daytona(Panda) or New ExpII orange hand(Nemo??).
IMHO
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I see... so the older one is Seadweller and the newer ones are called Deepsea Seadweller...
Got it bro... :thumbsup:
So, the Seadweller does not come with rehaut inner bezel? Discontinued before Rolex apply the rehaut? Correct?
Correct.
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Thanks for all the replies so far.
As for the DSSD that G.Mac mentioned, the newer DSSD is engraved with "Original Helium Valve"
I am not too interested in that model.
I am more into the older discontinued ones but I have seen "M" Serial ones without the chapter ring.
So, is it safe to assume that the DSSD is discontinued before Rolex start engraving the inner bezel?
Daytona... yes... which is also a choice... black or white dial? ;D
choc dial with ceramic bezel! :thumbsup:
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Just to clear the air, there is Sub and sub date, no such thing as sub nd.
Hanz079,
Go with what sings to you. Yes, the Daytona is the 'ultimate' Rolex (to some or many) but is it to you? Don't go with the herd. Buy what you like. Personally the Rolex that sings to me is the SD, Sub and GMT Master (I or II). As for the Milgauss, I suspect it is following the path led by the Tudor Chrono Heritage, which is sad really. It is a nice watch.
Anyway, all the best with the hunt.
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Thanks Hobbs for the clarification.
It has been mentioned in the forums that most ppl refer to the sub as the sub no date.
So just to be specific, the one I am interested is "Dateless" Sub
Anyway, I have visited my local AD a couple of weeks back and I have tried on
1. "Dateless" Sub ;D
2. Explorer I 39mm
3. GMT Master IIc
4. Milgauss Black Dial
5. Sub Hulk
All of them sings to me except the Exp I.
Price notwithstanding, I would love to gasak all at one go :HammerHead:
But, in the real world... only one can follow me home...
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Daytona!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :Laughing_on_floor:
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Just to illustrate difference between DSSD and SD...featuring the brothers in my collection..
(http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx236/gmac88/DSC01334.jpg)
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For me I will go 4 blue gold sub o the all gmt pepsi
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Hi,
Didn't know there is Sub and Sub Date!!
Submariner is one of the 'watch snob's' four all-purpose watches, can wear it with dress or tshirt/jeans. The other 3 is Rolex Datejust, IWC Portuguese & AP Royal Oak
I do not own any Rolex but personally I would get Submariner first. However when I go outside, I encounter more people wearing Submariner(or similar) than Daytona (only saw once).
-bocy
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Dilemma ........... I envy you, but, on the other hand, dont like to be in your shoe. Me too, in favour of your choices :thumbsup:
Yeah, what wonderful 'problems' our Bro Hanz has. :laugh:
Enjoy your dilemma! :Confused:
Take care, Ciao! :thumbsup:
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Thanks Hobbs for the clarification.
It has been mentioned in the forums that most ppl refer to the sub as the sub no date.
So just to be specific, the one I am interested is "Dateless" Sub
Anyway, I have visited my local AD a couple of weeks back and I have tried on
1. "Dateless" Sub ;D
2. Explorer I 39mm
3. GMT Master IIc
4. Milgauss Black Dial
5. Sub Hulk
All of them sings to me except the Exp I.
Price notwithstanding, I would love to gasak all at one go :HammerHead:
But, in the real world... only one can follow me home...
when i was shopping for my first Rolex, i eventually bought the polar Explorer because it was different. the second was a Daytona because it is really interesting once you know more about it. and i like using the stopwatch.
why not Submariner (date, no date, LV, hulk) or GMT? because it's classic Rolex and everyone is wearing one. but the two-tone blue/gold Sub, well.. now that's another story...
why not SD or DSSD? because it's a monster on me and it feels off-balance with the height and are you ever going to dive 1,000s of feet??
never really liked the Milgauss no matter how many times i see it. and i doubt i'll ever be near any strong magnetic fields to need it. the lightning bolt hand looks cute though.
now if you want a Daytona, personally i'd say skip the hype and forget the SS models. you only get black or white dial. the black is more "in demand" in Asia and it's darn hard to read if you ask me. ADs want a price premium for it too. white is much more easier to read and usually sold at MSRP. at no discount, i'd highly recommend you top up a little more and get the two-tone. lots more dial choices.
the new Explorer 1 (214270) is not as nice as the older 114270. the simple look is really classic.
at the end of the day, you will wear the watch and it's all up to what you want.
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Thanks for all the input.
Unfortunately I am working on a budget here...
The problem with the Daytona is that I have yet to try one on... so I have no idea how it feels...
Unless my weekend trip provide me with a huge windfall, I am pretty much stuck with models costing around 20-25k...
That is the funds I amassed while selling all my other watches.
Lets see how it goes...
Thanks guys :thumbsup:
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Oh yeah...
About the Submariner No Date.
There are the 2 line ones and 4 line chronometer certified ones.
Is it safe to assume that both models will run at COSC standards?
When did Rolex discontinue the 2 lines and replace them with the 4 line model?
And the movement should be the same right?
And besides the dial difference, any other difference?
And can anyone here confirm that the size for the sub and sub date is the same?
My eyes might be playing tricks on me but I feel like the Sub No Date is a wee bit smaller...
Am I right?
Thanks
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Oh yeah...
About the Submariner No Date.
There are the 2 line ones and 4 line chronometer certified ones.
Is it safe to assume that both models will run at COSC standards?
When did Rolex discontinue the 2 lines and replace them with the 4 line model?
And the movement should be the same right?
And besides the dial difference, any other difference?
And can anyone here confirm that the size for the sub and sub date is the same?
My eyes might be playing tricks on me but I feel like the Sub No Date is a wee bit smaller...
Am I right?
Thanks
hanz079,
The 2 line 14060M were available until mid 2007 when it was replaced by the 4 line 14060M. The 2 line 14060M first appeared in 2001 replacing the 14060 which came out in 1989. The original 14060 was powered by Rolex caliber 3000 and the 14060M by the Rolex caliber 3130. The post 2007 4 line Submariners were the only other Submariner to be certified as chronometers since the 5512 stopped production in 1978. If the current 14060M is 'replaced' next year, it would make it the shortest lived Submariner model.
Both the 14060M 2 line and 4 line were COSC capable but only the post 2007 models were sent for COSC certification, thus the 4 line.
As for the size, the Submariner is slimmer as compared to the Submariner date. The submariner also has a slimmer bezel then the Submariner date.
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Thanks Hobbs... You have been a big help.
MWF can always count in u... :thumbsup:
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The problem with the Daytona is that I have yet to try one on... so I have no idea how it feels...
Unless my weekend trip provide me with a huge windfall, I am pretty much stuck with models costing around 20-25k...
Don't try a watch on if you aren't going to buy it... it may give you sleepless nights!!
The Daytona is a strange watch. I find that people either love it or hate it. There is no middle ground.
If you are willing to take pre-owned watches, two-tone Daytona are cheaper than new SS Daytona and just a bit more than your budget.
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Another question.
When did Rolex actually implement the rehaut inner bezel?
Some say that it's from "M" Series, but I have seen some "Z" serial watches that come with rehaut ???
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Another question.
When did Rolex actually implement the rehaut inner bezel?
Some say that it's from "M" Series, but I have seen some "Z" serial watches that come with rehaut ???
hanz079,
Model dependent. It came out in 2004 on the Turn-O-Graph and start to appear in the Sports model (except GMT Master II) from about mid Z serial number or sometime in 2007.
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So in other words, there is no chance to find a GMT master II coke model with the rehaut?
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So in other words, there is no chance to find a GMT master II coke model with the rehaut?
I would say no, but since this Rolex we are talking about, who knows.....
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So in other words, there is no chance to find a GMT master II coke model with the rehaut?
I would say no, but since this Rolex we are talking about, who knows.....
Why ???
Is Rolex that disorganized?
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No they are pretty well organized, just that they are very secretive. They say that they did not do the engraving on the rehaut but they may do otherwise. Just like the serial numbers, suppose to be random serial number. They introduce the G serial numbers. With Rolex, we just never know.
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Hmmm? ???
So what you're saying is the "G" serial is the latest?
I thought Random Numbers is the latest?
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Hmmm? ???
So what you're saying is the "G" serial is the latest?
I thought Random Numbers is the latest?
At the moment alphanumeric serial no are the latest model but we couldnt track until sum1 decipher it. So only Rolex know when is the exact manufacturer date.
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Hmmm? ???
So what you're saying is the "G" serial is the latest?
I thought Random Numbers is the latest?
Both the G and alphanumeric serial number were issued in 2010. So it is difficult to say which is the latest. However, the G serial number is limited to 999,999 pieces and the alphanumeric is limited (?) to 78 billion pieces. As such I guess the alphanumeric will be here for a long, long time.
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There are no GMT Master II 'Coke' with the rehaut inner bezel. At least having looked at a few from different series.
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since we are discussing about rolex models, there is a question i would like to verify with all the watch "sifu" ;D
Q1 : Is all rolex watch model make by 904L steel?
Q2 : since which year they started using 904L?
TQVM :Cheers:
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Copied from the Rolex forum;
Rolex starting using 904L around 1987 in most models now all models mainly use 904L for cases etc.There are loads of threads like one below on 316L and 904L in forum just do a search.
http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=118398
dc
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Say if I wanted to buy a GMTII Coke of the last serial before being discontinued, the series would be?
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M?
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M?
In that case, wouldn't an "M" Serial come with rehaut?
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M?
In that case, wouldn't an "M" Serial come with rehaut?
Nope as Rolex was 'using' the GMT Master II to exhaust all the non engraved rehaut. I sent you a PM on the hunt for the M series.
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M?
In that case, wouldn't an "M" Serial come with rehaut?
Nope as Rolex was 'using' the GMT Master II to exhaust all the non engraved rehaut. I sent you a PM on the hunt for the M series.
Thanks for the PM Mr.Hobbs...
Ok, so all my GMTII questions are answered.
Now to the Seadweller.
The seadweller is discontinued around the same time as the GMTII coke/pepsi as well right?
So the latest serial before being discontinued is also "M" series and does not come with rehaut as well?
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Now to the Seadweller.
The seadweller is discontinued around the same time as the GMTII coke/pepsi as well right?
So the latest serial before being discontinued is also "M" series and does not come with rehaut as well?
The Seadweller was discontinued in 2007 (officially) but there were a few that escaped and made it to the V series. And no SD has the rehaut branding (god forbid).
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Thanks again Hobbs,
Dependable for answers as usual.
Regarding the PM you sent me on the 3185 and 3186 movement,
I found out a way to test which movement is equipped without opening the caseback.
Unscrew the crown and pull it out one click (2nd Position)
This position enables you to adjust the hour hand independently without the seconds and minute hands stopping.
Try to adjust it forward a few hours and backwards a few hours.
During the adjustments, if the minute, seconds and GMT hands move abit... it means that it is equipped with a 3185 movement.
For the newer 3186 movement, the minute, seconds hand might creep abit but the GMT hand will not move even a tick.
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hanz079,
Does not always works. Best to open and check. Not really going to impact the water resistance of the GMT Master II.
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So Hanz did you pull the trigger already..personally if its me i'll go for the cosc 14060 which less noticeable... Also perfect size imo and balanced clean dials..but if given free :Praying: i'll definitely go for the new ceramic gmt/submariner
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No trigger to pull liao... lost in the casinos on my weekend trip... damn...
:Mad: :Scolding: :Blue: :Confused: :HammerHead: :'(
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Haih... just entered the casino... luck was good... in less than 30minutes... won myself an Submariner...
Then I thought... still early... see what happens in the next hour since all my colleagues also still gambling.
Maybe can make the push from Submariner to Daytona...
Manatau I lost a Submariner pulak in the end... :Scolding:
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Better luck next time, Bro. hanz. :Praying:
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Haih... just entered the casino... luck was good... in less than 30minutes... won myself an Submariner...
Then I thought... still early... see what happens in the next hour since all my colleagues also still gambling.
Maybe can make the push from Submariner to Daytona...
Manatau I lost a Submariner pulak in the end... :Scolding:
should have cabut when you already bagged the Sub..
like Kenny Rogers said in his song.. "got to know when to walk away and when to run"
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Noob for Rolex, whats the price range for Submariner, as well as Rolex generally.
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Noob for Rolex, whats the price range for Submariner, as well as Rolex generally.
free_enuf,
New or pre-loved? Current or vintage? Sports model or general collection?
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new current, submariner and rolex in general including the sports ones.
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new current, submariner and rolex in general including the sports ones.
free_enuf,
Current Submariner should be about RM 20 to 21K. Most of the new Sports series should be about there, RM 20 to 25k. Rolex in general? I would guess Rm10 k upwards.
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are you referring to the SubC? Last I asked in an AD the SS LN goes for RM26 and the LV RM30...not sure about grey though...
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Second omni, that's the kind of prices i got when I went to the Rolex place in pavillion
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Now some questions regarding tritium now.
Does all tritium age and will turn patina?
How come some rolex with tritium from year 1998 already aged and some hasn't at all?
How long on average the tritium will start aging?
Some subs are saying 12 links is full links... Some says 13. So which one is full?
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To my understanding, those that have not achieve patina are mostly those kept indoors so the tritium has not degrade due to lack of UV from sunlight. All tritium should age and develop a patina. And i think 13 links are full links. I may be wrong.
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To my understanding, those that have not achieve patina are mostly those kept indoors so the tritium has not degrade due to lack of UV from sunlight. All tritium should age and develop a patina. And i think 13 links are full links. I may be wrong.
I see, so those that have not achieved Patina are safe queens... got it... :thumbsup:
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Now some questions regarding tritium now.
Does all tritium age and will turn patina?
How come some rolex with tritium from year 1998 already aged and some hasn't at all?
How long on average the tritium will start aging?
Some subs are saying 12 links is full links... Some says 13. So which one is full?
hanz079,
There are lots of reasons why some Tritium dial have patina and others don't. Until today, there is no conclusive answer. Patina or not is dependent on the following factors (arguments still raging):
Temperature
Light
Varnish
Quality of Tritium
Etc
However, based on my experience, and some others, patina tends to develop more on watches that are stored away from sunlight. It is believed that sunlight (UV?) will bleach the tritium, hence no or little patina (note, this fact is still being discussed).
I have a NIB Panarai PAM00243I that has been a safe queen and the patina is just awesome. I also have a GMT Master that does not see the light of day (not much any way) and that has a lovely patina. I also had (sigh) a Revue Thommen which I got NOS from a store (inside a building, away from sunlight) and that had a lovely patina. I also have an Omega Seamaster Chrono that has a beautiful patina (last seen the light of day 10 years ago). I also just got a set of tritium hands for my Tudor Snowflake that has been kept in a drawer and it has a beautiful patina (which the Tudor does not have, uneven patina, used daily by ex owner).
Like I said, this is based on my personal experience and from what I have read and seen from other collectors. In fact there are friends and owners who have safe queens and the watches have not developed Patina. So it is not an exact science. Some collectors say that if the tritium has started to develop patina, it will continue to develop if kept in the dark. If exposed to the sun, it will slow down or not develop at all.
As for the links on the bracelet, it is 13.
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Thanks for taking the time to type out a detailed reply.
So, taking into account the longer deployants for sub vs expII, all rolex should have 13 links to consider full right?
And is it safe to assume that all tritium will "eventually" develop to patina? Just a matter of when?
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I have a NIB Panarai PAM00243I that has been a safe queen and the patina is just awesome. I also have a GMT Master that does not see the light of day (not much any way) and that has a lovely patina. I also had (sigh) a Revue Thommen which I got NOS from a store (inside a building, away from sunlight) and that had a lovely patina. I also have an Omega Seamaster Chrono that has a beautiful patina (last seen the light of day 10 years ago). I also just got a set of tritium hands for my Tudor Snowflake that has been kept in a drawer and it has a beautiful patina (which the Tudor does not have, uneven patina, used daily by ex owner).
Sifu Hobbit & Others, pls enlighten this newbie. ;D
I understand that patina is a kind of rust, basically discolouring caused by oxidation.
Is this something to be desired by collectors? Are there different types / levels of patina?
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Take care, Ciao! :thumbsup:
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in regards to patina, there is a love/hat relationship to it. Some love it to bits whilst others view it as "dirty". It is all up to personal preference. Some love to use the "patina effect" to boost the asking price of their watches.
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Thanks for taking the time to type out a detailed reply.
So, taking into account the longer deployants for sub vs expII, all rolex should have 13 links to consider full right?
And is it safe to assume that all tritium will "eventually" develop to patina? Just a matter of when?
hanz079,
When is a mighty long time...... :) Some will develop some won't.
bryankwc.
Patina is:
"radioactivity causes decomposition and the resin's color changes to yellowish-brown" Phosphor Handbook
But I like this version:
"a surface appearance of something grown beautiful especially with age or use"
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Thanks for taking the time to type out a detailed reply.
So, taking into account the longer deployants for sub vs expII, all rolex should have 13 links to consider full right?
And is it safe to assume that all tritium will "eventually" develop to patina? Just a matter of when?
hanz079,
When is a mighty long time...... :) Some will develop some won't.
bryankwc.
Patina is:
"radioactivity causes decomposition and the resin's color changes to yellowish-brown" Phosphor Handbook
But I like this version:
"a surface appearance of something grown beautiful especially with age or use"
Hobbs, so there are some Tritium Dial and Hands that have lost all of it's luminosity but won't patina like EVER?
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Patina is:
"a surface appearance of something grown beautiful especially with age or use"
Love that explanation. :thumbsup:
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Hobbs, so there are some Tritium Dial and Hands that have lost all of it's luminosity but won't patina like EVER?
hanz079,
Yes. Take a look at the photograph below (borrowed shamelessly from the Internet). It is over 40 years old but little or no patina.
(http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn322/TheHobbit_01/Collection/IMG_0504.jpg)
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Thanks Hobbs...
If that is the case, I guess I am f**ked...
Pardon my languange... Guess I should have researched more before i drop any moolah.
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Thanks Hobbs...
If that is the case, I guess I am f**ked...
Pardon my languange... Guess I should have researhed more before i drop any moolah.
hanz079,
Why so?
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Thanks Hobbs...
If that is the case, I guess I am f**ked...
Pardon my languange... Guess I should have researhed more before i drop any moolah.
hanz079,
Why so?
If you have been following my Rolex hunt.
I was quite adamant about getting a Rolex with a rehaut, brand new if possible.
But after some bad luck at the casinos, my budget is down to pre owned ones, old ones that cost cheaper.
So, if I were to get a Rolex without a rehaut, I guess I better go for a Tritium Dial and Hands so that when they age to some patina, at least it is unique.
I found a 14060M from year 1996 "T" Serial with a T<25 dial.
It has not aged to any patina yet and the lume is almost gone.
So I bought it hoping that it will age when in my possession...
But after all the answers that I have read here... looks like I am literally f**cked...
My fault and no one else to blame though... :P
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dont worry too much bro. There is no fixed time for patina to develop. It may develop once it goes to you? My pre-owned Exp II is from 2003 and is a T dial but no patina has developed but lume is totally gone. At the end of the day, it is still a rolex.
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dont worry too much bro. There is no fixed time for patina to develop. It may develop once it goes to you? My pre-owned Exp II is from 2003 and is a T dial but no patina has developed but lume is totally gone. At the end of the day, it is still a rolex.
Hmm? I asked around and most ppl tell me Rolex have stopped using Tritium since 2000.
Last series to still have T dial is the "A" serial.
You bought yours at 2003? Year of manufacture?
I have to agree on the bold part though... :thumbsup:
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Thanks to the Sifus for the explanation on patina.
So, I guess 'patina love' is like real life love - beauty is in the eye of the beholder. :laugh:
Take care, Ciao! :thumbsup:
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hanz079,
I would not worry about it. It may be a late bloomer. Most important, patina or not, it is still a Rolex and a nice one at that.
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Also I believe the Submariner should be reference 14060 and not 14060M. The reference 14060M came out in 1999/ 2000.
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Also I believe the Submariner should be reference 14060 and not 14060M. The reference 14060M came out in 1999/ 2000.
Yes, my mistake... It is the 14060 2 line sub non cosc certified...
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I dont really know when the ExpII is manufactured but it was bought from the AD in 2003 as shown on the papers. I bought it a few months back. The 2 line sub is a real beauty and is the closest to the rolex 5513 sub :thumbsup:.
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hanz,
so long as you didn't pay any premium price for the 14060, you shouldn't worry.
as a rule, always remember that trying to buy a watch and hoping it becomes collectible is a bad idea. i bought my Zenith Daytona with no premium price because it's a zenith and not because it will become collectible some day. one can always buy a newer Daytona anytime as they're still produced.
personally, i won't want a watch with patina or no lume unless there's something really special about it. in fact, my Daytona has no more lume either and i'm contemplating whether or not to spend a few K getting another dial with lume.
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Thanks for all the replies... I guess a Rolex will always be a Rolex.
I'm lucky not to have paid a premium for it... thank god :Praying:
As for being a collectible, different strokes for different folks...
My target was actually a brand new Sub 4 line COSC 14060M with rehaut.
That was before that dark night in the casino. :HammerHead:
So working on a budget, 14060 2 line T dial seems like the next best thing...
I know the thing about saving for what you really want and don't stray but I am thinking if I really did get extra cash for a brand new one, I can always sell it... and if it develop any Patina... hell I'm keeping it!!
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Im sure you'll be getting your target soon.... If not you own a legend there my friend. Enjoy it plenty.. :thumbsup:
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Ok, on with more questions.
The case of Rolex watches are made using 904 grade stainless steel right? What about the bracelets? Made using the same 904 grade steel or just normal 316 steel?
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I am not sure with the older models as i am yet to check but the deepsea which i am wearing has the word 'steelinox' which is the name for the 904L steel used engraved onto the steel on the bracelet and clasp so i can assume that the steel used follows the steel used for the watch case. Correct me if I am wrong.
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would be better to start one thread for each question. gets more attention then.
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would be better to start one thread for each question. gets more attention then.
I would like to but afraid I might flood the forum with single question threads...
I am not sure with the older models as i am yet to check but the deepsea which i am wearing has the word 'steelinox' which is the name for the 904L steel used engraved onto the steel on the bracelet and clasp so i can assume that the steel used follows the steel used for the watch case. Correct me if I am wrong.
I can see that on the clasp as well but where is it on the bracelet?
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I would prefer a diff thread as well.
Makes the topic more focused and easier for newbies to search. Not just some general thread like this and lump everything inside.
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I would prefer a diff thread as well.
Makes the topic more focused and easier for newbies to search. Not just some general thread like this and lump everything inside.
Ok... Sorry... I will next time. In the meantime. Mods can close this thread as it is titled too generally... Thanks.
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5513>14060 haha
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Daytona 16520 :thumbsup: