Rolex vs Tudor: Different steel quality
You truly are a WIS if you start comparing the grade steel that goes into your watches when you decide to buy one.
I dunno, Romaine Jerome says it uses the coal and steel taken from the Titanic (from several km underwater), moon dust from the Moon(!) to make their limited edition watches.
Seriously, like I said in my above posts - it's all a matter of degrees. Whether you are basing your choices on exclusivity or or for the "love of the art". Would say, the knowledge that one ETA mechanism uses a regular escapement or an innovative co-axial escapement tip your choice one way or another? It has happened before - years ago I had to choose between a older design but new Seamaster (/w ETA mvt) and a then new Seamaster (/w 2500C Co-Axial - a modified ETA). Hard choice. I got the classic swords hand Seamaster first and later the James Bond design - but my decision was actually based on the fact that the swords hand Seamaster was being phased out, not the movement - things were not equal.
How would you characterize the TAG Heuer 1887 caliber? A Japanese design licensed from Seiko - adapted and modified extensively as claimed by TAG Heuer designers, wholly manufactured in-house at the TAG Heuer facilities in Switzerland or so TAG Heuer claims. In-House, or sub-con movement? I personally think it's an in-house movement though most people think of the Japanese origin as a bit of a cheat.
The Swiss watch industry up till the 90's were wholly reliant on sub-contracted movements and parts. The brands differentiated themselves through case and dial designs. In house manufactures that did everything (case, dial, movement) like Rolex were considered rare exceptions, not the norm. Having a sub-contracted movement in a Swiss watch was to be expected back then and marketing/advertisement materials almost always made no mention of the ebauch/movement that went into the watch. That sort of degree and detail came only much later.
What they did advertise though was what sort of shock protection went into their watches!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incabloc_shock_protection_systemhttp://www.tztoolshop.com/page95.htmlAt one time Incabloc was so popular and was so powerful that it was featured prominently on the dials of watches. People were so used to the ads that they thought Incabloc was the watch manufacturer! If I remember the story right, Incabloc was demanding watch makers to put the Incabloc name on the dials - which angered Rolex very much that it went exclusively with it's rival Kif (and very much much later developing Paraflex on it's own). So in the 50's to the 70's, watch aficionados were not really debating the merits of in-house movements vs non (95% were all sub-contracted - or it didn't matter or advertised),
purchasing decisions were based on the shock protection system used in the watch!Just some perspective I guess.
PS:
Just google "vintage incabloc advertisements"
http://home.watchprosite.com/?show=nblog.post&ti=655001PPS:
Edit: I am reminded that even Rolex "cheated" a bit and used sub-con Zenith movements in their early Daytonas. This mania for the forced vertical integration in the Swiss watch industry is the creation of the late Nicholas Hayek/Swatch.