Author Topic: Watch Review: Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar 40MM  (Read 1806 times)

Offline hong999

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There are multiple watch brands offering perpetual calendar complication but often come with different reasons that stop me from getting 1:

a) Holy Trinity (PP, AP, VC): Classic Quantieme Perpetual is my favorite, but the price shut me off.

b) JLC & IWC : Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar is a legend in the industry because the module able to adjust the perpetual calendar using only 1 crown. Of course, hefty price tag is expected.



c) Dubois Dépraz: They offer perpetual calendar module to watchmaking industry, often is Quantieme Perpetual module. The current Frederique Constant perpetual calendar and old Montblanc perpetual calendar are using Dubois Dépraz Quantieme Perpetual module. The dial design is not my favorite.



d) H. Moser: Unlike the former 3 categories, Moser perpetual calendar able to adjust the date forward and backward at any time without damaging the movement. Moser perpetual calendar used to price at RM90k, but now the Streamliner made Moser popular and their perpetual calendar watch is selling at least RM130k.

e) Ulysse Nardin: Brilliant perpetual calendar module created by Ludwig Oechslin that can adjust the date forward and backward without damaging the movement. However, my small wrist can’t fit the large watch diameter.



After all the introduction, I finally acquired Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar 40MM (Module: 119925).



Function:
The watch debuted in SIHH 2019 with a patented lever-less perpetual calendar module operates with wheels and cams only, to control the displays and also offering a second timezone display. The calibre is MB 29.22. You can use the crown to set the date backwards and forwards without damaging the movement. There is also a safety lock preventing you from using the pusher from 6pm to 3 am, when the calendar mechanisms are engaged.

This watch does not have second hand, but Montblanc has thought about it and added 3 small line at each minute track represent 15 seconds each line, to help the user keep track the daily variation & ease for time adjustment. The watch is tested with 500 hours in Montblanc lab ( Vs JLC is 1000 hours  :Dancing_banana:).



The case size is 40mm diameter with stainless steel case.



The caliber MB 29.22 comes with bi-directional automatic rotor. It has twin barrel with 48 hours power reserve and run at 4Hz frequency. The twin barrel design ensured the power output is consistent to achieve the chronometer standard. The base movement of MB 29.22 is Cartier caliber 1904-PS MC, which manufactured by ValFleurier (Richemont Group movement manufacturer) and shared among the Richemont Group's watch brands (include Piaget, VC and Cartier).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqF__nNdXmM

Verdict:
a) The dial design is similar to Patek - Quantieme Perpetual and I like the dial with blue colour words on the dial. 
b) Friendly mechanism to adjust the date & day forward / backward without breaking the movement.
c) Bang of buck.


« Last Edit: September 20, 2022, 04:43:54 PM by hong999 »