General Tips that I read about and wish to share with everyone :
1. Type of watch and "Trend"
One will need to find out the type of watch and the trend at that period of time of the vintage watch in the pre-owned market. Generally we know that a diver watch with scuba bexel only exist in the early 60s ever since the invention of Rolex Submariner in the late 50s. If you found a divers watch and the seller claim it to be made in the 40s, you will know something is not right.
If the seller claims that automatic chronograph watches (which was marketed around 60s; prior to that only manual-winding watches are available) were from 50s, what will you think? These a re few of the basic knowledge which can guide us on vintage and antique watches.
2. "Brand Familiarity"’ and ‘Watches Signature’
There are literrally thousands of brands from Switzerland, and Swiss brand which are ’localised’ in Hong Kong. Same goes for Seiko, Orient and Citizen from Japan. HMT India has collaboration with Citizen of Japan. Every watch has its own "signature".
For example Omega watches from 1950s and above has Omega logo on its, seahorse logo on the casing for Seamaster watches, "Observatory" logo for Constellation model etc.
The Omega Serial number can be found on its movement or "engine" which denotes 7 hingga 8 digit numbers and can tell when the watch is manufactured.
3. "Watches Material" dan "Watches Movement’
1970s sports model watches mostly used "hardened mineral glass" and if this watch is using acrylic, the crystal is most likely changed and it become a "rojak" watch. The same goes for the watch movement.
For example, a Tudor calendar watch uses ETA movement dan AS (depending on the model and year made). There is a Tudor signature at the winding rotor dan watch plate. If none, most likely the watch movement was changed. Same goes for watches using ETA, AS, Lehmania, Venus and Valjoux movement. To recognise the type of movement used by high end watches is necessary to avoid being cheated. This requires a high interest in knowledge of watches. If not sure, get feedback and opinion of experience vintage/antique watch collector.
4. Checking Watch Condition.
It will be impossible to check the watch condition if one was to buy through internet. The physical condition of a watch depends on the seller, as one can only check the watch after we paid for it and the watch was delivered to us. If buy from shops, one can do the followings :
Method #1 Automatic or Manual Winding
(For manual-winding) - Wind the watch crown and listen to the train wheels sound. The sound should be consistent and gear movement not “stuck” as the watch is being wound up.
(For Automatic) – shake it and the watch should be moving fine.
Method #2 Look at the second hand and ensure that it is moving consistently and can last a couple of minutes. If the second hand stops repeat method #1. If it still stop, a few possibility : (1) centre wheel or second wheel spoilt, (2) transmission wheel jammed up, (3) watch barrel stuck and (4) watch escape mechanisme not functioning well.
Method #3 Turn the crown for a period of 24 hours (clockwise). Ensure every 1 hour count – the hour and minute hands is at the correct index. For calendar watches ensure the date changes between 10 hingga 12 hour index (pm) and shown in the center of the date window.
Method #4 Open the back casing and look at the movement (engine or motor for layman’s term). When the watch is functioning properly, observe the balance wheel movement. Ensure it is stable at a horizontal position. If not, maybe the spring on the balance wheel is spoilt resulting difficulty in tuning to get the correct time.
Method #5 Look at the regulator or tuner. If Swiss watch, sometimes part of the bridge has inscription r ‘F’ for Fast and ‘S’ for Slow. If the needle (regulator marker) is near the ’F’ at maximum index, it means that the watch timing has reached its peak and require to be serviced or “overhaul". Some watch showed a + or -, instead of “F” & “S”
Method #6 On automatic watch, it has a rotor plate. The part moving once we shake the watch. If the rotor movement not smooth, possibility of rust or friction on the roller-ball or ball bearing on the winding mechanisme.
Method #7 For divers watch which has an outer bezel, turn the bezel clockwise and ensure the turning is smooth. If not, maybe the ball-bearing, rubber (bezel rubber inset only on Japanese watches), and holding wire spoilt. There is a possibility of dirt accumulated or rust on the bezel tooth.
In summary, the combination of the above methods in checking a condition of a watch physically. It also depends on the type of watch. Another advice is to observe the timing of the watch as compared with a quartz watch (for hours). If the timing is fast/slow compared with the quartz watch (which is very accurate) that means something need to be done on the vintage watch.
Have a Good weekend.
Chng
