I recently received a Dornblüth & Son 99.5 Center Second watch. Dornblüth is located in Kalbe, Germany. I ordered this watch in August, 2015 however they were closed for the summer holiday so my order was not processed until September. I received this watch December 8 this year.
For those not familiar with Dornblüth they are a small independent watchmaker that make 10-12 watches a month. They are a throwback to the old days of watchmaking using traditional watch making tools. They do not have an assembly line like most manufacturers. They have several models and I spent about 6 months deciding which model I wanted. Since they have arrangements with very few retail shops, I had never seen one in the metal, much less on my wrist. Most of their models are 42mm. All of my other watches are 42-44mm with the exception of a Breitling Aeromarine chronograph thats 48mm.
Dornblüth was great to work with. From the time I ordered it was approximately 8 months before they contacted me to clarify details on the watch. Dornblüth does not offer many options but there are some things they offer.
The movement is a highly decorated ETA 6498 base. Dornblüth modifies and replaces some parts of the base movement.
I selected the white dial, applied raised blue numerals and blue hands. The hands, numerals and most of the screws are heat blued, not chemically blued or anodized. While it's a simple process to heat blue steel, its very temperature sensitive to get a consistent color. I'll have to say my numerals and hands match beautifully.
Most of the time the hands and numerals look black. But when the light strikes it right, they shift to blue. I've even had the numerals look silver at times.
This is a manual wind watch with hacking and rapid date advance independent of the crown. There is a small pushbutton flush with the watch case at 2.
The display back is very nice to look at. The swan neck regulator was something I wanted in a German watch. They retain the use of chatons secured with the blued screws. So visually the movement is very nice to look at through the sapphire crystal.
Time keeping is -6 seconds a day at this point. I'll have to see what it does in the future. I wind it each morning so the 48 hour power reserve does not get below 20 hours even if I wind it a bit late.
Dornblüth made a bracelet in the past but now only offer leather straps. A signed pin buckle or signed deployant buckle are options. I got both with some extra straps.
I think the watch is great for office or casual wear. However I don't know the waterproof rating of the watch. Without a screw down crown I wouldn't get it wet. I'm guessing its 3 ATM but that is a guess.
This watch is not for everyone. It's not the latest technology in timekeeping or manufacture. Its not a tool watch, not for sports or rough wear. Hands and numerals have no luminous coating. But it's what I wanted which was a return to the old school of watchmaking with real craftsmen working the watch from start to finish. Well, except for the base 6498 movement but I have the satisfaction that Dornblüth modified and decorated it.
I'm very happy with the watch and the way it wears And I will likely buy another Dornblüth some day. Unfortunately there are a few others on the list ahead of it since I've scratched the Dornie itch.




