Author Topic: Raw Denimlogy  (Read 19286 times)

Offline ivanswk

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Raw Denimlogy
« on: November 08, 2013, 02:04:51 PM »
Think most of us own a pair or 2 of jeans. 
Let start a talk about your fav pair and how long u been wearing it etc.  :Cheers:

some nice sauce and fora to hang out for denimhead :Cheers:

http://www.rawrdenim.com/
http://denimhunters.com/
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/forum/22-superdenim/
http://www.mydenim.org/
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php
http://www.selfedge.com/

« Last Edit: November 08, 2013, 02:11:53 PM by ivanswk »

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2013, 02:18:13 PM »
got few 501 previously, now currently rocking a 21oz
yup good for punishing your balls  :HammerHead: and u need to have iron one to walk in this  :Laughing_on_floor:



Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2013, 02:30:30 PM »
from the web
Why Should I Care About Raw Denim?
 
Sure, this is all interesting but why should you care about raw denim?  More importantly, why should you wear it over pre-washed & distressed denim?  Here are the just three reasons:
 1.Better Value - Think number of wears v.s. amount paid.  You might be able to get a pair of pre-washed denim jeans for $50, but what’s the shelf life on them?  It’s not uncommon for raw denim jeans to be able to withstand 1000+ wears before retirement.  Just look at this stunning pair of  LVC - 15 years strong!
 2.Personalization - I had read somewhere that a pair of raw denim is like a individualized canvass.  Indeed the fade results and any other visible marks, rips, or tears are specific you and your body.  For a dramatic illustration of what we mean, hop over to Takayuki Akachi’s documentary on the “Traveling Denim“.
 3.Environmental & Ethical - Believe it or not, non-raw denim jeans have a bigger and wider scale impact than you might think. Though I’m sure there are some exceptions, the low maintenance and general simplicity of raw denim is not only less detrimental to the environmental, but also more labor-friendly


u like patina, u might love the fade more



« Last Edit: November 08, 2013, 02:33:22 PM by ivanswk »

Offline hanz079

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2013, 02:36:14 PM »
I don't know bout u guys,
But when i get a new pair of jeans, i wear them in the shower...
I move around, squat, kneel, twist and do all kinds of movement.
After shower, i took them off and place then flat on the floor.
I do this for a weeks or so... It makes the jeans fit much better... Weird?
Terrenceterrence "seriously, i think buying a watch for it's secondhand value is like getting married and thinking about divorce at the back of your mind."


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Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2013, 02:37:55 PM »


One distinction that must be made clear as well is that Raw denim ? Selvedge denim. Many people confuse the two and think they are essentially the same, however there is a big difference.  Raw denim refers to the wash while Selvedge is the edge. I’ve found that most Raw Denim is “selvedge” and not all Selvedge Denim is raw.  Non-selvedge denim’s edges are not crisply finished and thus can easily fray.  Whereas with selvedge denim, the edges are nicely bound (hence “self-edge”), diminishing the likelihood of the ends/edges unraveling.It’s important to bear in mind as well that as Selvedge Denim is becoming more and more popular, it does not always equate to higher quality nor justify a higher tag.  You have to be sure to check the other denim characteristics (i.e. raw? sanforized? weight?).
 ;D

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2013, 02:46:14 PM »
I don't know bout u guys,
But when i get a new pair of jeans, i wear them in the shower...
I move around, squat, kneel, twist and do all kinds of movement.
After shower, i took them off and place then flat on the floor.
I do this for a weeks or so... It makes the jeans fit much better... Weird?

i heard of this legendary way of washing, dunno any person personally doing it hahah  :Cheers:
so does it work ?  ;D

Offline r3kahsttub

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2013, 02:52:46 PM »
Back in the day (and in cooler climates), I usually first soaked my raw denim to avoid bleeds, before wearing it religiously for months on end. Nowadays (and in such humid climate), I really can't be bothered anymore.



Oh... I also put on a ton of weight
:Laughing_on_floor:

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2013, 03:05:23 PM »
a month back, i pull out my old jeans from the closet, think more than 5 years no wearing  :Confused:
i am confident it not fit anymore, suprising out 8 piece, i manage to fit into 3 (ok i squeeze through it, skin almost pell off haha  ;D)
cotton do stretch and voila , salvage 3 pair and can wear on weekend  :Cheers:
they dont look straight cut, now more like taper fit, oh well .. that the trend now rite .. skinny  :Laughing_on_floor:


Offline hanz079

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2013, 05:04:09 PM »
I don't know bout u guys,
But when i get a new pair of jeans, i wear them in the shower...
I move around, squat, kneel, twist and do all kinds of movement.
After shower, i took them off and place then flat on the floor.
I do this for a weeks or so... It makes the jeans fit much better... Weird?

i heard of this legendary way of washing, dunno any person personally doing it hahah  :Cheers:
so does it work ?  ;D

If the jeans is not washed or distressed... the lines will appear as you wear them in the shower... so it sorts of mold to you body...
Well... those are the good old days when I am spending quite a substantial amount on jeans.
Wanna look fashionable and "in"  mah during younger days.
Nowadays... with my body shape growing horizontally instead of vertically, I just buy jeans that fit... simple... hahaha
Terrenceterrence "seriously, i think buying a watch for it's secondhand value is like getting married and thinking about divorce at the back of your mind."


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Offline TheHobbit

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2013, 05:12:02 PM »
A couple of years ago, a friend showed me how jeans were made to look stone washed and not by stones by using enzymes. 30 seconds and the all dark blue jeans came out stone washed. Awesome and at the same time scary.

Offline Kennypane

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #10 on: November 08, 2013, 05:43:15 PM »
I stopped eating jeans since I discovered Uniqlo slim fit pants. All so light and airy. I used to wear 501s until I spent money buying watches. Then moved to Gap khakis then now slim pants. Longest pair I still own but don't wear anymore, since Uni days. Approx 18 yr old.

Offline terrenceterrence

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #11 on: November 08, 2013, 07:55:59 PM »
Me nothing special, just raw denim Levi's 511 and Uniqlo 001. To maintain the colour I just send them to the dry cleaners. Nothing fancy.
Better outrun my gun....faster than my bullet


Offline kenixck

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #12 on: November 09, 2013, 03:33:13 AM »



you really got iron balls, all the wear & tear are there ...   :thumbsup:

Offline kenixck

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2013, 03:36:38 AM »

Local brand Cheese Denim - worth a try .... looks good to me :)

Offline kenixck

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2013, 03:39:47 AM »
got few 501 previously, now currently rocking a 21oz
yup good for punishing your balls  :HammerHead: and u need to have iron one to walk in this  :Laughing_on_floor:


stand up by itself jeans must be this one  :Laughing_on_floor:

Offline ndtaan

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #15 on: November 09, 2013, 05:36:53 AM »



you really got iron balls, all the wear & tear are there ...   :thumbsup:

looks like the butt area :Laughing_on_floor:

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #16 on: November 09, 2013, 09:11:37 AM »
^not mine leh, pic from the web, i just started back into raw
new canvass, i am going to make some fade with these  :Cheers:







Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #17 on: November 09, 2013, 09:21:56 AM »
that will be naked and famous 32oz  :Cheers:



got few 501 previously, now currently rocking a 21oz
yup good for punishing your balls  :HammerHead: and u need to have iron one to walk in this  :Laughing_on_floor:
stand up by itself jeans must be this one  :Laughing_on_floor:

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #18 on: November 09, 2013, 03:49:09 PM »


this is a pair of filson made by tellason i have sometime back which is same as the rising sun jean is made with cone denim
see the tag white oak cone denim http://www.conedenim.com/home.html

WHITE OAK
Still true to its heritage, the White Oak plant in Greensboro, NC, operates today as the denim flagship operation, serving as the center for product development and innovation, and the production of Cone Denim’s authentic premium vintage denims made exclusively in the USA. Whether using its most modern equipment and technology, or utilizing its vintage narrow shuttle looms, White Oak has the unique ability to innovate and style with distinct creativity, precision and control. The mill was named for the 200 year old White Oak tree that stood nearby and served as a gathering place for people traveling to Greensboro from the surrounding countryside. Construction began in 1902 and the first bobbin of yarn was produced on April 20th, 1905

http://www.rawrdenim.com/2013/03/meet-your-maker-cone-mills-of-greensboro-north-carolina/

Today, Cone Mills White Oak denim, still produced in Greensboro, North Carolina goes hand-in-hand with both quality and the resurgence of American made goods.

The company’s signature selvedge denim is still woven on American Draper x3 fly shuttle looms from the 1940?s. The company asserts that the fabric woven on these looms has a “depth and dimension” that is unique to Cone Mills denim. They even claim that the turn of the century wood flooring that the machines sit on create a unique rhythm that is woven into the fabric. These antiquated machines, combined with loyal and skilled employees, some of which have been working at the White Oak plant for 50+ years, all contribute to the old world quality of Cone Mills denim.

Many companies still look to Cone Mills for their denim needs because they are one of the last quality selvedge denim producers in the United States. Cone Mills also produces an incredibly durable and unique denim that is admired by both manufacturers of denim as well as consumers.

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #19 on: November 09, 2013, 04:19:34 PM »
info on japanese mill  ;D  http://www.rawrdenim.com/2013/04/meet-your-maker-japanese-denim-mills/

what go best with a pair of nice denim, most probably is just simple tee  :Cheers:
or maybe a loopwheel tee maybe   :Dancing_banana:

Creating Loopwheeler products is a timely process, what makes this process so unique?

A machine weaves 24 loops a minute, which is slow enough that you can track the movement with your eyes. Experienced craftsmen have to attend the machine constantly. Slowly and gently, without putting excessive tension on threads by only leveraging gravity, the machine knits the fabric to enhance the natural texture of the thread. It feels as if air was knitted into the material. Whenever possible we use a flat seam sewing machine that was used heavily back in the 1950s. Machines today require around 10mm allowance, but this machine requires only a couple of millimeters. A small allowance reduces overlays of materials and bulk creating a more comfortable finished product. In addition the flat seam machines use six threads at a time; more threads in the seam increase strength and durability to the product. It’s slow, takes more attention, but the natural skill of the engineers truly affects the quality. I believe it is made with mysterious skill unique to Japan, which no one can duplicate.

http://www.loopwheeler.co.jp/en/origin/makeit_w1.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYGKmSaS29A

my first loop wheeled tee, and really an eye opener for me, how soft this stuff is  :o

Offline ivanswk

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #20 on: November 09, 2013, 04:24:35 PM »
from the web...  ;D

Another fabric besides denim that the Japanese have 'borrowed' and perfected.
Here's Loopwheeler's interview off their own website:
http://www.loopwheeler.co.jp/en/origin/makeit_w1.html

Or light out-take:

"
Ichigo: These are all vintage sweatshirts, right? How old are they?

Satoshi: They are all made in USA during late 40's - mid 60's. They still look great, don't they?

Ichigo: That's cool. Are they still wearable?

Satoshi: You bet. Just because they were knitted by a machine called "Loopwheel". But they can knit only a meter of fabric per hour. I must say it's awfully inefficient in the light of today's technology.

Ichigo: Do they still use this machine in USA?

Satoshi: No, they don't. Exactly speaking, they'd already scrapped Loopwheel machines in the past. Currently they use only the ones for mass production.

Ichigo: Then, where are sweatshirts of LOOPWHEELER being made?

Satoshi: They are being made here in Japan. Fabric in knitted in Wakayama prefecture.

Ichigo: I see. I wonder if I could see the whole process.

Satoshi: OK, let's go. I will guide you through the production.

Ichigo: Nice looking town. I came here for the first time, but mountains are nearby, very much calming place.

Satoshi: This town looks a bit rustic now, but in the past, this place had been the biggest factory area in Japan for circular knitting. There are still a few factories running Loopwheel machines.

Satoshi: This is the factory of Kanekichi co. They are knitting Loopwheel fabric for us.

Ichigo: Are they winding yarn here?

Satoshi: Yes, this machine is re-winding yarn to make it suitable for knitting machine. The first stage of knitting.

Ichigo: I've never seen this kind of machine. Rotating very slowly...... Is this a Loopwheel?

Satoshi: That's right. It's rorating 24 rounds per minuite, knitting fabric. It's so slow that actually you can count it.

Ichigo: I see, is that factor making soft fabric?

Satoshi: Being slow means no excess tension. Fabric is being made with very much relaxed yarn, making fabric with softness which comes from cotton yarn itself.

Ichigo: All these machines are connected to a single motor, right?

Satoshi: Yes, that's right. In Japanese, Loopwheel machine is called "Bagworm knitting machine". You can see machines hanging from wooden pole just like a bunch of bagworms. Apart from slow rotating speed, another important factor is that knitted fabric would go down just by gravity, no pulling down, thus making fabric with no excess tension, soft with a lot of air knitted in together with yarn.

Ichigo: White cotton dusts everywhere like silkworm factory. Looks very soft and.... beautiful.

Satoshi: It's just a dust for us, but maybe you get a different impression, Ichigo?

Ichigo: I've been thinking about "snow".

Satoshi: "Snow"...... actually, the image of snow is the right connection to the next place we go, Yamagata prefecture.......

Ichigo: A lot of yarn going into this machine.

Satoshi: This is the latest Sinker machine. Invented in mid 60's, during big global economic glowth, where the priority was "the mass production". Currently, this machine is used all over the world in majority. When compared with Loopwheel, bigger diameter, 240 rounds per minuite, 10 times faster, 10 meters per hour, less needs for maintenance.

Ichigo: It makes a lot, but not a soft fabric.

Satoshi: Exactly. It might feel like soft at first, but keep on wearing and washing, you would be lucky if you could think it's still soft after 3 years.

Ichigo: This is a funny looking setting. What's in these milk bottles?

Satoshi: Lubricating oil. You see the stick wrapped in white cloth on top of bottles. Osmotic pressure keeps the cloth always a bit wet with oil, giving it to the yarn to enable smooth knitting. A wonderful invention of Kanekichi to make a better products using only old conventional methods. I think it's very important to consume time and labour, to try to make it better.

Satoshi: This is a roll of fabric knitted by Loopwheel. Final process at Kanekichi.

Ichigo: How many meters in a roll?

Satoshi: 22-23 meters per roll, worth 17-18 pieces of sweatshirt. In a day, though, only 11-12 meters per machine, 8-9 pieces of sweatshirt.

Ichigo: Oh, it's making a single sweatshirt very valuable.

Satoshi: Well, you can say so. But it was normal in the past. Nowadays, a very few people bother with this inefficient production, almost a level of cultural heritage.

Ichigo: We should keep on making good quality things even if it's taking a lot of time and labour.

Satoshi: We are determined to hand this over to the next generation. There is only Japan left.

http://mynudies.com/showthread.php?11887-Loop-wheeled-cotton-fabric-from-sweats-to-Ts/page2&s=edc338ea28f6ead6bcee96535cac3208

Offline dennis.T

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #21 on: November 10, 2013, 07:01:06 PM »
Go n have a look at nudie. Their raw denim jean also not bad...

Offline silverstan

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #22 on: November 14, 2013, 10:30:17 AM »
i used to have some raw denim. (Nudie & Naked and Famous) but Nudie seem to have this common problem which is the crotch is always break apart.. Maybe due to it's quality or bad design... not sure. Now only left 1 Nudie raw jeans.

Now, mostly i wear designer Jeans only. for it's design and cutting.
Currently most of my jeans are from Dsquared2, which i found that the cutting is very nice fit and i like it's style.

Offline llcj

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #23 on: November 14, 2013, 02:53:40 PM »
my raw denim, i think there are nudie, 7, hudson, and boss, AG, etc.. they never have problem or fade ever since i had them.... guess i am just not wearing them enough...

Offline bigkahuna

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Re: Raw Denimlogy
« Reply #24 on: November 21, 2013, 01:21:09 PM »
All these while I thought I was alone in my Denim collection until I did a search recently and realized that there are others in this forum who are into selvedge denims too! Anyway, I'd like to take this chance to share some of my personal collections of selvedges. Most of them in my collection are either raw or one wash and I make sure that all length alterations done are chain stitched. They are as follow from top left: Sugar Cane Jeans - left hand twill, Eternal – BIG competition Jeans, PRPS, Evisu no.2, Nudie Jeans Dry Grim Tim, Momotaro Jeans, Iron Heart – 21oz! and Nudie Average Joe Lab1. Will Share more another time  :Cheers:

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