Malaysia Watch Forum
Main Forums => General Discussion - Modern Watches => Topic started by: Loris-76 on September 27, 2018, 07:55:55 PM
-
Hi guys! I want to discuss with you about decorations on automatic movements.
Some days ago I was talking about it with some friends and I noticed that there are different opinions about it.
In particular, I’ve seen a special finish in a Montblanc movement. I post the pics below.
Do you consider it Standard or Elaboré? Do you consider it as a better finish, if you compare it to the perlage?
Personally I like it a lot, I haven’t watches with this kind of finish. (I post a perlage movement below as a comparison)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2jg9rm1.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/167l387.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/r1db1j.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/23uy0c0.jpg)
-
I'm both surprised and glad that someone here appreciates finishing. I have not seen any discussion here about this topic ever since I joined this forum.
The perlage on the Calibre 18 to me is nicer and I would think require more work. I think perlage still needs to be done by hand.
I have similar perlage on my ETA28xx movement and I like the way it catches the light as i swirl it at an angle to the light source. Things we watch lovers do.
-
some background reading on finishing
https://monochrome-watches.com/a-technical-perspective-all-you-want-to-know-about-finishing-in-haute-horlogerie/
-
some background reading on finishing
https://monochrome-watches.com/a-technical-perspective-all-you-want-to-know-about-finishing-in-haute-horlogerie/
Read the article. Like the way they describe perlage in the article.
"This finish is one of the few not to be entirely automatized and usually, a watchmaker’s hand is required..."
The linked video below shows how its done.
https://youtu.be/07JOiZOKVR0?t=1m28s
-
Display caseback is one of my favourite part of a watch. It is sometimes nice to know this is a part of the watch only the owner gets to see.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Geneva Seal required movement parts to be polished and finished nicely and there is a functional reason.
The good finished can withhold the oil well within its oiling vicinity and preventing oil spill over other parts. This is a way that to prolong the movement life.
-
I saw one watch review that they compared the movement of an omega Speedmaster with a Patek 5170p
Both are great watches, but when he compared the movement finish of the Patek, it's very astonishing on how the little details are going on..... To me if I have a the cash, nicely decorated ones are the way for me to go, tho now can't afford it yet :(
-
Yet to discuss about anglage, mirror finished, stuffs like that.
The best there is can be found in the movements created by Philip Dufour.
-
Geneva Seal required movement parts to be polished and finished nicely and there is a functional reason.
The good finished can withhold the oil well within its oiling vicinity and preventing oil spill over other parts. This is a way that to prolong the movement life.
Not to miss out that Cotes de Geneve is to trap dust. Useful in the old days. Now most watches are hermatically sealed with double O-rings and stuffs like that. But manufacturers still do it because without it, watch movements will look so flat and boring.
-
My 2 cents - I think the appreciation of movement decoration isn't as much in this part of this world primarily due to:
1) the appeal of Rolex (which to date has had only one discontinued watch that has ever had a caseback)
2) most well done decorative watches can only be found if you're willing to spend more than RM1x,xxx
3) decorated rotors of ETA 2824 are a bad way to get introduced to the true meaning of decoration
Let me just share my recent favorite when it comes to movement decoration, if only to just be a nice grail dream:
(https://d23x6d9cx8qezf.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/06-Lange-Sohne-Datograph-Up-Down-Jacques-Olivier.jpeg)
-
My reply to you below.
1) the appeal of Rolex (which to date has had only one discontinued watch that has ever had a caseback)
Can't agree more. Rolex and Omega are ubiquitous in this part of the world.
2) most well done decorative watches can only be found if you're willing to spend more than RM1x,xxx
I think you need to double or even triple that number
3) decorated rotors of ETA 2824 are a bad way to get introduced to the true meaning of decoration
I think it is a good way. SOme 28xx series rotor i have seen are decorated nicely and it is a good start. Rotor aside, some ETA movements are finished extremely well by hand. Check out the Blancpain's movement here. Amazing mirror finish rounded bevels. http://ninanet.net/watches/others12/Mediums/mbp.html
-
1) I actually think Omega at least shows it off a bit more these days with their METAS movements. And with the new Seamasters, you can at least get that under RM2x,xxx.
(http://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Omega-Aqua-Terra-cal-8800.jpg)
And even the 1863 sapphire caseback moonwatches are an attempt at that for just under RM2x,xxx.
(https://production-fratellowatches.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/speedmaster2.jpg)
Have to give even credit to Tag since the introduction of their 01 and 02 movements.
(https://i0.wp.com/www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/TAG-Heuer-Autavia-Heuer-02-2017-aBlogtoWatch-23.jpg?ssl=1)
2) One exception, to the price and decoration is Nomos - they have been putting effort to showcase decent machine-finished decoration for just over the RM10,000 mark.
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e8/6d/b4/e86db4702a24e36841189be8ca83afaf.jpg)
3) I stand corrected. In any case I'm inclined to agree as I started my appreciation into movement decorations with a basic ETA 2824 found in a Ball 3-hander. Beautiful sharing on the Blancpain! :)
-
Unitas 6497
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180930/78217bf6124b9ea711226c673df859fa.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I think the fascination of viewing the caseback and decorated movements is to see how the small parts move, especially looking at the balance wheel beats. I like the presentation of the Speedy caliber 1863, with no rotor obstructing the views.