Author Topic: EHF-Horlogere Blog  (Read 21917 times)

Offline TheHobbit

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #25 on: April 19, 2012, 01:44:33 PM »
What is the industry take on the number of micro brands popping up at the moment and it's impact on the industry. You are looking at even companies that use to make 'questionable' watches going legit with their own brands. Also what is the Swiss industry take on Chinese movements.

Offline JOS2012

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #26 on: April 19, 2012, 04:24:03 PM »
What does the ordinary Swiss watchmaker (not the CEOs' of the watch conglomerates) think of Swiss manufactures vs their German and Japanese manufacture counterparts

From a pure watchmaker's point of view, economics and marketing aside, do they believe that going the ebauche way is best or going the manufactured movement way is best.
Are there things in the Swiss watch industry they wish were done differently or if they could rebuild the industry from ground up.

Do they honestly think that Swiss is best ? 

The main Japanese manufacturers Seiko & Citizen are manufactures ( Citizen does outsource some parts but not the majority whereas Seiko is a wholly integrated manufacture)
Most German watchmakers still use Swiss movements except a handful such as Lange, Glashutte, Lange & Heyne, Nomos (only recently but used to modify ETAs), Dorneblueth, Vyskocil and those other German AHCI members.


Hey guys !

The boys/girls in Le Locle would like some ideas about what topics in watchmaking people might be interested in and they could blog about them. Lets hear some suggestions ! :)
Personal taste and preferences evolve over years, hopefully not 1 full circle otherwise it means we haven't learnt a single thing.

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #27 on: April 20, 2012, 06:52:02 PM »
Yoh !! Guys/girls !!

thanks for suggestions !!!

I'll do them up one by one !!

But i think i want to answer the part on "watches passing through our master watchmaker's hand" .. Ha ha .. that one is surely a big BS which many many watch brands like to tell their customers !!! :)

So, i'll post before and after pictures !!!!

And also the time it takes to do them !!

Is that ok ?

Other topics like the " impact of Swatch Group's limit on sales " .. that one will be answered in due time .. its also a headache for us here but we have something up our sleeves .... and thats a secret for now !

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #28 on: April 20, 2012, 06:54:17 PM »
I think more info on how you guys make the "normal" UNITAS "special" to your own standards.
How you do each parts finishing and if you modified any existing parts.

Any improved accuracy after you guys/gals finished the movement.
Yeah, I agree.
Maybe a pictorials on your work and the detailed finishings, changes or improvements done.
We always read the sentence "a movement that has passed thru the hands of our master watchmakers" from other brands and we are wondering what did their "master watchmakers" do?
It will be an eye opener I am sure. :Cheers:


Ha ha !! At anything below USD 20,000, i doubt their master watchmaker does much other than pop the movement into the case. Full stop.

The article to write on this one will be massive. Give me a week ! We have a very important occasion next week for Watchmakers and therefore, we'll go silent for a bit ...

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #29 on: April 20, 2012, 06:57:12 PM »
Out of curiosity, how many people would be interested in a simple assembly and watch workshop ? It would be a one day course, some basics of watch mechanics and a re-assembly and assembly of a ETA 6497 or 2824 movement. Also, for those who are more adventurous, they can purchase a kit from us and assemble their own pieces during the workshop ... all taught and directed by EHF watchmakers of course ..

Offline JOS2012

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #30 on: April 20, 2012, 07:47:14 PM »
That would be interesting.

Sometime back I had the chance to attend Sincere Watch Academy in Singapore where they gave us a clock kit and explained every part and its function and we were guided on how to assemble it into a clock which we were allowed to take home. I've forgotten most of it by now but the clock is still with me…

Another similar class was during a watch exhibition in Kuala Lumpur, Journey of Time where I was lucky to attend the watch assembly class conducted by Jaeger-leCoultre where we were given the chance to do partial assembly on an actual Reverso movement…however not from scratch to finish. They also gave us a CDRom where its a tutorial and you can practice the assembly of a Reverso movement from scratch to finish on the computer.

Both those few hour sessions were real enlightening and fun and are really memorable. A chance to do this again with an ETA ebauche would be great.
Then we can go order the Erwin Sattler clock kit and assemble that ourselves.
Do give us more details on the cost ,etc.



Out of curiosity, how many people would be interested in a simple assembly and watch workshop ? It would be a one day course, some basics of watch mechanics and a re-assembly and assembly of a ETA 6497 or 2824 movement. Also, for those who are more adventurous, they can purchase a kit from us and assemble their own pieces during the workshop ... all taught and directed by EHF watchmakers of course ..
« Last Edit: April 20, 2012, 07:52:30 PM by JOS2012 »
Personal taste and preferences evolve over years, hopefully not 1 full circle otherwise it means we haven't learnt a single thing.

Offline takashi78

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #31 on: April 20, 2012, 09:02:46 PM »
More importantly where would this course be conducted?

Malaysia?
Overseas?

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #32 on: April 22, 2012, 01:30:52 PM »
Hi there,

We are gathering interest first but it can be anywhere as long as the response is big enough ! Details soon after this week though ! we've an important event for our watchmakers this week and we're all preparing for it .. :)

But, we could do it in Malaysia but we have no ground resources there, i.e location, tool sellers, Dealers etc etc ... If anyone might be interested in gathering these up, Malaysia is definitely on the cards.

Offline am_sober

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #33 on: April 24, 2012, 08:48:07 AM »
It seems like ur website and blog is down... ><
temporarily for server maintenance or...?

is it just me? lol~
"People who says it cannot be done, should not interrupt those who are doing it~ ^^Y"

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #34 on: April 24, 2012, 03:24:55 PM »
It seems like ur website and blog is down... ><
temporarily for server maintenance or...?

is it just me? lol~

Oh dear ! Is it down ??? I can access it fine here but could you try again ? If its not up, i'll give a shout to our guy whom does the website ..

Offline am_sober

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #35 on: April 24, 2012, 03:43:53 PM »
yerp~ can already~!  :thumbsup:

it just me i guess..
hurm.. ><"

"People who says it cannot be done, should not interrupt those who are doing it~ ^^Y"

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #36 on: April 24, 2012, 04:42:15 PM »
yerp~ can already~!  :thumbsup:

it just me i guess..
hurm.. ><"

Alrightey !! Quite a scare there !! But thanks for the heads up !! :)

Offline Laktos Kid

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #37 on: April 25, 2012, 01:21:44 AM »
wow~ an assembly course, that sounds like fun... count me in if it happens ! :thumbsup:

and the website, sometimes it is unresponsive... need to wait a while only can access~ maybe something is not right

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #38 on: April 25, 2012, 03:00:31 AM »
wow~ an assembly course, that sounds like fun... count me in if it happens ! :thumbsup:

and the website, sometimes it is unresponsive... need to wait a while only can access~ maybe something is not right

Hey ! Oh dear ! Thanks for your input !! We'll have to look into this. Anyway, we don't really have much budget for the website as well. It was done up by an avid supporter friend of ours. Watchmakers and computers don't go together. Ha ha ... But that said, terribly sorry !!

But yes, We'll shout this way once we have the final details ! The only issue we have now is the venue and ground resources. We're totally unfamiliar with Malaysia but we are very keen ! :)

Offline bluetuna

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #39 on: April 25, 2012, 05:37:58 AM »
That's a good idea. If it's conducted in Malaysia, I will be interested.

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #40 on: April 30, 2012, 01:44:14 AM »
That's a good idea. If it's conducted in Malaysia, I will be interested.

Ok ! Great news !

We've ironed out the contents of the one day workshop but we'll be trial-ing it soon !!

Now, how should i gather interest levels ? A poll ? A new thread ??

Offline EHFwatch

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #41 on: April 30, 2012, 03:22:06 PM »
Has anyone still have problems logging into the site ?

We have registered another ID for our IT guy. He will be able to sort this out. Watchmakers and computers do not go together.

Shawn ! Introduce yourself here ! :)

Offline EHFshawn

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #42 on: April 30, 2012, 03:33:03 PM »
Hi Everyone! 

Many apologies if you guys have had problems with our website.

We made some changes to allow some of our Chinese friends to access (the great Chinese firewall is powerful); and since then we have had some slight hiccups.  We hope to clear this up over the next week or so... *crossing fingers*

In any case, we had the pleasure of a Philippine Watch Club friend visit our Singapore showroom (I believe some of you may know Yan from Watchwerkz, who I believe met some of you when she visited Malaysia some time back).  He posted some photos of our demonstrators on his site here:  http://www.philippinewatchclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15019&start=10  So do enjoy!

On a related note, we are working with Yan to turn her showroom into a hang out place for watch enthusiasts.  EHF will be sponsoring Swiss coffee from our trusty and heavy duty Jura Impressa C5 and we just went crazy buying flavoured syrup for the coffee as well; in addition to other Swiss snacks and chocolates.  So, here's an open welcome to MWFers who make their way to Singapore and to enjoy some hospitality and a new home away from home.

 
Cheers

Shawn @ EHF


Has anyone still have problems logging into the site ?

We have registered another ID for our IT guy. He will be able to sort this out. Watchmakers and computers do not go together.

Shawn ! Introduce yourself here ! :)

Offline danny

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #43 on: May 04, 2012, 08:15:39 AM »
Thanks Shawn for the kind invitation.  :thumbsup:
Will definitely pay Yan a visit on my next trip to Singapore.

 :Cheers:

Offline EHFshawn

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #44 on: May 06, 2012, 07:00:36 PM »
:)  Look forward to seeing you in Singapore.  Cheers, Shawn

Thanks Shawn for the kind invitation.  :thumbsup:
Will definitely pay Yan a visit on my next trip to Singapore.

 :Cheers:

Offline EHFshawn

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #45 on: May 10, 2012, 12:01:06 AM »
We do agree on the same thing though.
If you think it's an insult to pop a standard ETA movement into a case and call it watchmaking, I guess alot of us here are on the same page.
If the product you're offering provides good value... I am sure I will support.
If no one supports upstarts, then I guess there will be no advancement in watches and technologies...
Good Luck and I hope your venture succeeds. :Cheers:

hanz079,

Was just reviewing our forum posts... at the same time we had a question coming in on "So, what makes EHF stand out from the rest and what value do we add ?"... wanted to share / document the value we hope to bring to watch collectors through EHF watches... and it seemed a response to yr thread again might be fitting... 

This post is the first of several that we are planning... for our first of the series, we will cover the work we do on our movements.... and we will move down the list for the other components...  If anyone prefers to get updates via Facebook, just head on down to http://www.facebook.com/EHF.Horlogere ... 

(Danny, if you are reading this... do you think it might be worthwhile / appropriate for us to start a new thread and in what section for this series of posts?  It might be quite fun to see what questions/queries come in about watch making in general as a result of sharing our watch making process, so that we can address them along the way!)

PART 1: MOVEMENT
We're pretty dam sure not many small, micro brands would dare to show this. :)


So this is the standard, ETA 6497 movement. Its the ebauche and a while back, a pretty big brand popped in something like this into their watches and sold it in a limited edition package. Since the cases which EHF uses has a crystal back, we really can't cheat on this. But if someone does get an EHF watch with this version, its DEFINITELY LIMITED EDITION. Guard it with your life and make sure you don't sell this.


Next, we have the SOPROD version. This comes straight from SOPROD and technically, this is the ELABORE version or otherwise known as the "elaborate finishing" version. Also, technically, you don't need to do anything to the movement and you can encase it into a watch case directly. We don't do that and then sell them for USD 800 - 1600. We saw a watch project on some forum and someone was selling this for USD 1200. This takes 10 minutes to encase since you don't need to do anything to it. If we do that, the watch should fairly not cost more than USD 500 for a steel version since we do absolutely no work longer than 10 minutes. To be honest, in the next post, you'll see the difference between this and our version.


And lastly, this is our finished movement. In the next post, we'll post contrasting pictures of each bridge. How long we take to do up each movement ? About 1 - 2 days each, depending on how busy we are and how much time we spend on re-timing since the balance bridge is dis-assembled ... It can take up to 2.5 days to do one piece. We are comprised of watchmakers, not investor-backed nor do we depend on big ticket marketing. We want to share fair valued watches with watch lovers and this is our end-game.  Support watchmaking, support fair pricing and support the real deals !!


Our own mods ... side by side ... Black rhodium and Red Gold movements ..


Hope everyone enjoys this!

Shawn & the EHF Team

Offline takashi78

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #46 on: May 10, 2012, 11:55:04 AM »
I like your honest approach and level of transparency to watchmaking.

Have you every thought of doing a skeleton dial?
Without taking too much metal off.


Offline EHFshawn

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #47 on: May 12, 2012, 12:25:06 PM »
Hi takashi78

Thanks for appreciating our approach... we think its the only sustainable way to go about doing things since we are in it for the long haul...

To answer your question, yes... we did play with the idea of doing something with a skeleton dial.. but with limited resources and so many ideas... we had to put that in the back burner....  we would probably not take so much metal off the main plate.. just enough to show the gear train.. and cur out only enough dial to show the movement... we still think that the dial (at least part of it) is required to assist in clear viewing of the hands and for the markers/numerals....   In any case, do share your thoughts re a skeleton dial... what's yr take on them?

Sorry for the slow response.. handling little kid and another project at the same time!  And on the EHF side, I'm also working on a watch design competition to help design some of our limited edition watches for the SE Asian countries... e.g. a Malaysian LE version, Philippines LE version, Singapore... etc etc... do you think there is enough design talent in the region / or designers or even watch enthusiasts willing to take part in such a competition?

Cheers

Shawn




I like your honest approach and level of transparency to watchmaking.

Have you every thought of doing a skeleton dial?
Without taking too much metal off.

Offline EHFshawn

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #48 on: May 13, 2012, 08:51:48 PM »
PART 2: THE MOVEMENT (DETAILS)

Today we're going to show people the bevels which we do. These are not the best pictures we have because its not easy taking Macro close up shots without proper professional equipment ...


This is from the standard ETA ebauche .. notice the bevels or edges of the bridge. Very rough. ETA sells this as plain raw movements for others to finish up.


This is the SOPROD version which comes straight from their manufacture. Its really quite good and they've spent time on making sure its not visible to the eye.


This is what we do. To each bridge. This is takes time !!! Alot of time and skill as well since we do it the traditional way. It may not be very visible on its own but taken together, there is an unexplainable difference. This picture was taken with the protective cover so the scratches belong to the plastic covering, not the movement.

We dare to show and tell because we can. Some may diss us and say its a waste of time but yet, we don't sell our pieces more than our competition. Marketing only goes so far so lets show up and see who has the real skills. Assemblers are not watchmakers. We only have watchmakers in our group ... And if assemblers put these pieces together, marketing material shouldn't say " xxxx has passed through the hands of our master watchmaker" .... He really won't have the time to do that for anything below USD 10000 ...

Watch out for Part 3 next week!

Offline EHFshawn

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Re: EHF-Horlogere Blog
« Reply #49 on: June 14, 2012, 03:45:59 PM »
Sorry for the downtime on here!  We've been busy with the Classic Version 2, which we will share more on another post!

We came across a magnificent vintage movement which we recently acquired at an estate sale.  This movement and others of its kind were made for pocket watches for sale in the Chinese market in the 1800s.  Many of them were made by the Swiss.  Even by 1800s standards, the detail is amazing.  The bat-wing's balance is also unique, and these photos are perhaps the first time many of our blog readers have seen one of them.     Seeing it in action brings it to a whole new level of enjoyment.   We like it for so many reasons.  The technical curiosity of the bat's wing balance, the detailed engravings and that it represents East West trade in the 1800s which mirrors what we are seeing today!

Many of them were made, but not many of them have survived till today in good working order.   We are very pleased ours can be restored to its full and glorious functioning; and talking to a designer friend to come up an interesting concept to bring this piece to a whole different level!



More photos of the movement on here:  https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.448070285218177.106524.336892503002623&type=3